This layer fits inside the frame, so measure the inside dimensions and cut a piece of 3/4″ birch plywood to fit. The bolt holes should be large enough to allow for some fine-tuning. Better to do these now than later! Bolt the frame to the saw table and rip fence rails to check its fit. Leave the frame in place for now you will be making minor adjustments to subsequent components for access to the fasteners you just installed. You may not be able to use the original fasteners that came with the saw. The author dabbed black paint on the hole locations of his saw table to mark the router frame for drilling matching holes.ĭrill these holes and elongate them, and all others, for later height adjustment. The transferred paint clearly shows the hole location on the wood frame. I dabbed black paint around the bolt holes, then pressed the frame against the top. Then mark the location of the bolt holes for attaching the frame to the saw table. Since the middle and top layers will rest on top of the frame, set the top of the frame about 5/16″ lower than the cast- iron saw surface and mark this location. Now fit the frame into position on the saw. Use a scrap depth gauge to locate the ledges accurately.
#Unisaw table saw install#
Install ledges inside the table framework to support the bottom plywood layer. Then add a ledge inside the frame to support the top this ledge should be at a depth equal to the thickness of the bottom plywood layer. Butt-joint the frame pieces using 2″ screws and yellow glue. The width is critical the frame should fit snugly between the saw rails. So build the frame first that way you can deal with unique mounting require- ments and interferences from the get-go.īuild the frame from 1×4 solid wood to the dimensions determined in the previous step. Building the Frameīolting your completed extension to the saw can be the trickiest part of the proj- ect. Measure the distance between your saw’s fence rails first before cutting any of the project parts to size. If you want an even deeper table, you can extend a bit farther, but no more than about 6″ past the end of the rails. I chose mine to extend to the end of the fence rails, which on my saw is 161⁄2″. The most critical dimension is the width - the distance between saw fence rails mine was 271⁄8″.The depth of the extension is somewhat arbitrary. Remove the extension wing of your saw and determine the size of your new router table extension. NOTE: The dimensions in this Material List may need to be adjusted to fit your table saw. There’s no special fence with vacuum openings and no hoses on the table. The table is made in three layers: a top surface of durable countertop laminate, a middle layer of 1/4″ MDF and a bottom layer that includes the dust conveying chamber, made of 3/4″ birch plywood. Dust and chips are vacuumed away down the bit opening as soon as they are cut. An internal chamber connects the router bit opening on the top surface with a shop vacuum connection on the bottom. The concept I came up with is a dust collection system built right into the tabletop itself. I also wanted effective dust control, but none of the commercially available dust control systems appealed to me. When I decided to add a table-mounted router to my small shop, adding it as an extension to my saw was my best option. It is convenient, saves valuable floor space, and it’s inexpensive to build. Replacing this wing with a router table is an excellent modification to your saw. Most table saws come with an extension wing on the right-hand side of the saw table.
It features a unique internal dust collection system for cleaner operation. Customize your table saw by replacing one wing with this convenient and floor-saving router table.